Category Archives: Restaurants

London’s best caffs

I wrote this for an American magazine Food & Wine hence explanation for what a greasy spoon is. They have made a lovely slideshow out of it. Photo of E. Pellicci from Classic Cafes A greasy spoon is a British institution … Continue reading

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After Brexit will we go back to cooking with tinned mushroom soup?

This is something I wrote for Food & Wine, an American magazine, just after the EU Referendum result. It’s entirely speculative but then most Brexit commentary is. Much of the increasingly bitter arguments over the recent referendum boiled down not to matters … Continue reading

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London’s Best Wine Bars

Today, wine bars are fashionable. There’s even been talk that wine itself might be… *whisper it* cool. Things were very different when I was growing up. Wines bars were considered terribly old-fashioned. Most weren’t even aimed at wine lovers. Instead, … Continue reading

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11 places to go out in Peckham

This is an article I wrote for Food & Wine. If you’d told me 10 years ago that an American magazine would run an article on Peckham’s food scene, I’d have thought you were barking mad. It’s thrilling and a little … Continue reading

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London’s most old-fashioned restaurants

This originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine. They’ve made a fancy slideshow out of it. I read a review recently of Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, a restaurant that opened in 1850, in which the writer described the restaurant as “old-fashioned.” It went … Continue reading

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What happened to all the quiet restaurants (and pubs)?

This article originally appeared in the Oldie magazine: The other day I went for lunch with an old friend at a fashionable Peruvian place in Soho. The food was nice, the noise was appalling. It was more like being in … Continue reading

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Would you spend £119 on a bottle of ‘Pommerol’?

One of my favourite articles from last year came from LA  Weekly entitled Hatchet Hall’s Wine List Is A Cruel And Maddening Joke. The author, Besha Rodell, has great fun with a list that is designed to baffle and exclude rather … Continue reading

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