Swarthy chicken is a family classic, but over the years it has evolved. For a while, I was queen of this dish. These days, my husband, Henry Jeffreys, is king.
Though I have always loved cooking, my abilities drastically improved when Henry entered my life. In many ways, he taught me how to cook. He taught me that it was not only wasteful to discard the carcass of a roast chicken, but also a shame as it makes such delicious stock. Most of the pasta sauces I make are versions of his. Same with my savoury pies. I’ll admit I never even made gravy until he showed me how.
The first time I visited him in London, he made a rolled shoulder of lamb stuffed with anchovies, garlic, capers, parsley, and lemon. He served it with a bottle of Rioja Reserva. Immediately I fell in love and then into a food coma. …
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