Lady column – Perfect Ten

Rather ominously, the Lady have stopped putting my columns online so I’ll be posting them on my blog instead. Here’s my 2nd November offering:

As soon as I’m handed a wine list in restaurant, especially a good one, my mind goes blank. The thing I struggle most to remember is vintages. I can just about do Bordeaux but after that I’m lost.  Was 08 a good vintage in Tuscany or was it the Rhone? This stuff matters. Wine varies enormously from year to year.  Very infrequently a vintage comes along that makes life simple because it’s good all over the world. 2010 was good to outstanding pretty much everywhere but particularly in red wine regions that I drink most of: Burgundy, Rioja, the Rhone, the Languedoc and Bordeaux. The best thing about 2010s is not only do they have bags of ripe fruit but they are also very fresh. When you have a year like this, the cheaper wines, the ordinary clarets, the plain Bourgognes and the Cote-du-Rhones, are the ones to go for. So my advice when consulting a wine list is if it has 2010 on, then buy. I can just about remember that.

Yering Station Pinot Noir 2010 Slurp £14.99

Australia also had a good 2010. This is elegant and savoury, without excessive alcohol but with an Australian generosity of fruit. I liked it so much that I bought a case to go with our Thanksgiving turkey.

Cotes-du-Rhone Guigal 2010 £9.99 Majestic when you buy two bottles

This old stalwart is particularly fine in 2010. It’s great now but will be even better in a year or two when those tannins fade.

Grand Bateau 2010 £9.95 Roberson

Sometimes  you can get good claret for under £10 a bottle. This smells of ripe plums and leather and on the palate it’s smooth with enough bite to keep it interesting.
Hunawihr Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker 2010 Slurp £15.95

Riesling from Alsace might just be my favourite white  wine. This one is intense and sherberty, extremely dry with a long mineral finish.

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About Henry

Henry Jeffreys was born in London. He has worked in the wine trade, publishing and is now a freelance journalist. He specialises in drink and his work has appeared in the Spectator, the Guardian, the Economist, the Financial Times, the Oldie and Food & Wine magazine. He was a contributor to the Breakfast Bible (Bloomsbury 2013) and his book Empire of Booze: British History through the Bottom of a Glass was published in November 2016.
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2 Responses to Lady column – Perfect Ten

  1. Toby says:

    it ENRAGES me whenever you do not mention The Wine Society.

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