Enough of these undrinkable craft beers

I have a friend who has been a real ale bore since his teens. During student pub crawls in Oxford he used to quiz unwary landlords on cellar temperatures and other arcane CAMRA matters. When he first visited New York some time in the 00s he was surprised by the craft beer scene. Surprised but not impressed. His comments were along the lines of: ‘typical Americans, they drink nothing but watery lager for years and then we they finally start drinking proper beer they take it too far with the hops, alcohol etc.’ My thought at the time was, when it comes to beer, too much is better than too little. Rather a Big Grizzly Bear IPA than Coors Light. Now that craft beer has hit these shores, we have the strange situation where British brewers are making versions of American versions of British beers.

The other night I reflected on my friend’s words whilst at the Cask in Pimlico. Actually it was almost impossible to reflect on anything so loud was it in this place. The next day my ears felt like they’d been at the Orbit in Leeds and my voice was hoarse from shouting. Never mind the Campaign for Real Ale, what British pubs really need is a Campaign for Soft Furnishings. I was looking forward to a nice chat with falafel magnate Patrick Matthews but I couldn’t hear much of what he said. The other problem was that most of the beers we tried were undrinkable (and the chicken and leek pie was horrid too.) They were nice at first but then my taste buds would be hit with a wave of hops and alcohol and I didn’t want another sip. We were drinking halves and it was very difficult to finish them. The nadir was a coffee stout that tasted like Guinness Foreign Extra laced with Tia Maria.

Patrick commented that the craft beer scene reminded him a little of wine 10-15 years ago. The emphasis then was on more: more extract, more ripeness, more oak, more alcohol. More, more, more! The model was big glossy Californian Cabernets. Wine has moved on. Everyone now talks about balance, acidity and drinkability. The model is Burgundy or even Beaujolais. Fashionable wines are ones that you could easily drink a bottle of by yourself. Or at least I could. Many new brewers, in contrast, are stuck in a 90s time warp. Rather than looking over their shoulders at the US, they should try some old favourites. The classic English beers such Landlord, Black Sheep and Young’s Special, are amazing and unique things. The disparate elements, alcohol, bitterness, fruit, maltiness are all in harmony with nothing shouting too loud. They’re complex enough to make you keep coming back but not so intense that you don’t want to take a really big swig. You can mull over them but they’re really for drinking in large quantities.

We shouldn’t be too hard on these ambitious new brewers though. To create something perfectly balanced is much harder than creating something immediately impressive. Making a good beer takes expertise and years of experience. I think in future all trendy beer pubs should have one classic British beer on tap just to show the young pretenders how it should be done. I bet it’ll be the first to run out.

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About Henry

Henry Jeffreys was born in London. He has worked in the wine trade, publishing and is now a freelance journalist. He specialises in drink and his work has appeared in the Spectator, the Guardian, the Economist, the Financial Times, the Oldie and Food & Wine magazine. He was a contributor to the Breakfast Bible (Bloomsbury 2013) and his book Empire of Booze: British History through the Bottom of a Glass was published in November 2016.
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7 Responses to Enough of these undrinkable craft beers

  1. tig says:

    Tim Taylor’s Landlord is one of the finest drinkd in the land. FACT.

  2. Anthony says:

    Well said and a great analogy with the california wines.

  3. Worm says:

    As ever you are the voice of reason Henry! From a marketing point of view I guess it’s a chicken and egg thing – who drives the change – the consumer seeking more subtle flavours, or the brewer?

    A nice 3.something% session beer like landlord is awesome when it’s fresh and nutty and cool

    If you are in the supermarket I recommend ‘wainwright’s golden ale’ as being one of the rare refreshing non-hop-bombs that I’ve found so far

  4. Sam Jary says:

    Could not agree more Henry – just like with the best wines, less is more when it comes to beer. We should have more confidence in our own tastes and fantastic brewing heritage; I’d rather drink a 3.7 per cent traditional English session beer (Yates Bitter would do nicely) than some over-hopped, over-hyped, over-here “cult” beer any day.

  5. I haven’t yet sampled any of the new trendy craft beers, but I am SO behind a campaign to bring back soft furnishings! I am sick of not being able to hear anything when I go out and am trying to catch up with a friend (pass the ear trumpet…)

  6. Henry says:

    Thanks for the tips with have to try Wainwrights and Yates. And yes campaign for carpets starts here. My hearing isn’t what it used to be.

  7. Nick_AKA says:

    whilst broadly agreeing with your comments on certain British brewers (mentioning no names) apeing US craft beers pointlessly & to the detriment of traditional British cask beers, your complaints about ‘trendy craft beer bars’ are daft. There are plenty of proper pubs (some even feature soft furnishings) serving proper beer. If you don’t like trendy bars full of ironically bearded pseudo beer snobs then find somewhere else. They’re not for me either but they have their place and some people MUST like them, or they’d be closing like many traditional places.

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