La Bota no 32 Manzanilla, Equipo Navajas – This has a very yeasty nose, distinct whiff of marmite here with some musty notes. In the mouth it’s big, dry and floral with a very long finish. The Sampler £25.
Amontillado VORS, Lustau – so long and complex that it seems more like a story than a drink: dark amber, very dry but with flavours of brown sugar and salted hazelnuts. Around £60 if you can get hold of it.
Oloroso Seco Faraon, Hidalgo – walnuts wrapped up in rich velvety blanket; dry finish but with a little sweetness. £10.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants
Palo Cortado Viejisimo, Cayetano del Pino – a symphony of sherry that smells of marzipan with floral notes, hugely dry and extremely long. £22 The Wine Society.